photo : Tim Jenkins

“Rest In Peace (And Jewels). . . “

I read the head-line & felt my stomach drop like a hackneyed phrase.

The style icon ” laid to rest ” by jeweler Shaun Leane

Tom Ford — but you already knew this, Y/Y?

Quick as a click-through, I arrived at Samantha Conti‘s
article ” Daphne Guinness’ Golden Glove” — from which I gleaned details of
the debut event for Contra Mundum, Guinness’ collaboration with Shaun Leane.

detailed view : 18 carat white gold [ yes, " steampunk " : I'm looking at you ]

Having lost two friends last month, it seemed a bit cruel, the cliff-hanger. . .
but brilliant.

[ Cue taken, duly noted : & thank you ]

Photo by Nick Knight

Upon noting Conti’s coverage is dated July 1st—translation : in ‘internet time,’ rigor mortis
has already set—my next thought was “Shit! I bet they’ve already covered this at Haute Macabre.”

Which, incidentally, wouldn’t be a [ optional usage : scare quotes ] bad thing
but I shouldn’t have to explain this

Surprisingly, they haven’t.

What comes as no surprise : the power of zeitgeist, synchronicity. . .
& good taste.

Nixon‘s been on a “Guinness ‘tear‘” this week, &—incidentally—posted a shot of Daphne in a coffin.

Who’s Free Of Flaw? Seriously : Look. Upon. This.

[ from the "Digital Death" event for  World AIDS Day, via Buy Life ]

Gemma Ward † Caroline Trentini † Iselin Steiro † Lily Donaldson † Agyness Deyn † Sasha Pivovarova

A moment worth re-visiting, from the “In My Tribe” editorial
Fashion Rocks Magazine , 2007

[ VIEW FULL SIZE ]

ENEMIES TURN TO LOVERS

LOVE ONES BECOME EXCUSES

DISTANCES SEEM LIKE REASONS

AND SNAKES CHANGE THEIR MASK FOR THE HUNTING SEASON

INTERPRETATIONS ARE MY NEW NIGHTMARE

STILL YOUR IMAGINATION MAKES ME MORE THAN JUST A MAN

I WON’T STOP, AND I WILL SAY IT ONCE AGAIN

FOR AS LONG AS YOU GIVE ME YOUR DREAMS

I WILL CONTINUE FILLING THE BLANKS

— Federico Cabrera

[ Initial Discovery via Fucking Young! ]

Photography & Post: Federico Cabrera

Styling: Jasmin Mishima

Hair & Make-Up: Marii Sadrak

Models: Anette M. & Eetu at Paparazzi

Assistance: Emma Hedenborg & Udi

& Next :

“Human Terror,” Featuring Mateusz—a.k.a. Matthew Budziak

[ Initial Discovery via Life Is Not Δ Rehearsal ]

Photography: Marcin Banasiak

Model: Mateusz/Matthew Budziak

Make-Up: Sandra Wiśniewska

To Start:
Seven Images from the Ben Trovato Blog,
in which Bielska’s editorial “Three Colors — RED” appears

“Three Colors – RED is the story of a creature that transcends to another dimension by means of an unreal space and color. The photos have been inspired by an enclosed space – the interiors of the Park Inn hotel in Cracow, Poland. I had some graphic visions in my mind prior to the shooting, a shape forming from two colors – white and black. As soon as I saw the interiors, however, I knew it was going to be a story of three colors.”

— Kasia Bielska

Photography – Kasia Bielska
Stylist and Producer – Kamila Picz
Make up – Marcin Szczepaniak
Hair – Tymoteusz Pieta @ Claudius Hair Dresser Team
Model – Ania K @ Mango Models

Next:
The Retinal Pleasures Continue, With
Beauteousness Filched From The Artist’s Site . . .

[ Check I†—Someone's Serving A Proper

…& I Ain’t Mad About It! ]

&
In Closing?

Snaps from a Sleek, Chic Editorial
That Conveys a Sense of  ”Tomorrow’s Old News Already–I’ve Taken It”

Bravo!
…& To The Future, Indeed!

Illustration of Vintage Camera by Rebecca Jones

“When behind the lens, I forget that I am a designer; I try to express an emotion;
I want to give people something to dream about.”
— Thierry Mugler

“To create something to dream about, I need exceptional women, locations and architectures. ”
— Thierry Mugler

“A photograph must come from imagination and not be a reflection of what is.”
— Thierry Mugler

“Appearance is fundamental to Thierry Mugler. Everything must be perfect and dreamlike. ”
— Christophe Delataillade

“Everything must be extraordinary, or there is no reason to show it.”
— Christophe Delataillade

All images & ensembles: credit Thierry Mugler

Most images located via Mugler on flickr

from his premiere publication: Photographé, 1988

:: Other Resources ::

One Haute Minute at Haute Macabre

the Thierry Mugler Fashion Pool on http://www.flickr.com

The Flirtation Between Fetish & High Fashion at Haute Macabre

Boundless Innovation. Outrageous Extravagance. A New Look At A Design Master: Thierry Mugler
housed here

To commence,
for the ladies—a dose of crosses & mayhem:

Crucify by Audrey Kitching’s Tokyolux

†‡†‡†

a two-fingered owl skull ring by Blood Milk,
who craft some of the most correct accessories I’ve ever seen

†‡†‡†

However, now? One for me…
I friggin’ love this print—though I need it on a black hoody, kplzthnx

We Lived Our Lives In Black by China Le, blogmistress of With Asian Stereotypes

†‡†‡†

Moving right along, as promised…

::  for the gents  ::

Crooked Crosses for the Nodding God

t-shirt by Obesity & Speed

†‡†‡†

from Ryan Noon‘s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection

‘My Tribe’:

Abstract Tee with
tiger teeth, legs, feathers & blue triangle print

‘Slit’ Tee with
shark tooth print

&

the Electric Shaman

†‡†‡†

from Actual Pain

Mystery Faith Crew Neck Sweater
&

Conjuration Sweater

†‡†‡†

Ashton Michael‘s Capelet with Hood

†‡†‡†

SkinGraft Designs : Black Leather Face Mask

†‡†‡†

Ombre Batwing Pants by Gods Prey

†‡†‡†

Silver Shark Jaw Necklace by Triskaidekaphobia

†‡†‡†

:: up . next ::
an objet d’art (seven of them, actually) ranking high on my list of
⟣ Severely.&.Sincerely.Coveted ⟢

the unisexy, multi-purpose Pins of the Seven Sacred Planets

by Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons

Oxidized Silver Cottonmouth Bolo Scarf,

&

a curious find: the hand-crafted “Horned Owl” Old Soul Pin,
for which 10K solid rose gold—with black diamond eyes—is an option.

†‡†‡†

from LAS : Sabertooth on Knotted Chains

†‡†‡†

In closing, the final retail charms
include

:: trinkets for the phalanges ::

Pamela Love‘s Double Talon Ring

&

the Oxidized Silver Spine Ring
by Shaun Leane—

a name recognized by many a darkheart
for his collaborative work with Alexander McQueen.

the roving, decadent, well-bedecked beast
is taking up residence at The Uptown in Oakland, CA

“…as the shades of the evening drew on, within view of the melancholy House of Usher.”

:: but what is this ‘House of Usher’—this legendary construct of myth & mirth & mystery—without its cast of characters, its inhabitants? ::

First, Please Allow Me To Present…

Shawni Brothers, Proprietress of The Estate

The question posited, I hereby present a sampling of retinal treats under the auspices that it might inspire any indecisive whine-&-diners of this, my self-named blogature, to readjust one’s posture.

Sir Xavier Haight, The Gentleman of The House
&
Vocalist/Founder of Malign, The Critically-Acclaimed Darkwave Project

Cutting to the chase, with the swath of a switchblade: If you live anywhere in the vicinity of this one-two punch of delectable darkness: even a cursory glance at the gorgeous creatures that follow should propel you off your gluteous maximus & rifling through your closet.

Case in point? The hyper-hyphenate & über-hottie Zoetica Ebb, as pictured above. Of course, you could stay in tonight & lurk endless jpegs of her posted at Biorequiem, her home base among the internet ethers—or you could even go all brainiacattack (accusations of gay? who, me? NEVER. I would not!) & explore Miss Ebb’s prolific outpourings at the subculturally essential—let alone just downright damn sublime—thick & slick & glossy-paged love-letter to alternative culture known as  Coilhouse magazine, of which she was a co-founder.

Or, hey!  Here’s an idea: how ’bout you just stay home with a family-sized bag of Cheetos & instead of licking the nuclear-hued dandruff off your fingertips, close your eyes & BEAT IT, BOSS
all breathin’ heavy & visualizing this fab fascinatrix you might—no promises from me, as this world we live in? a pretty damn cruel place…

But yeah, you might have a chance to stand close enough to do borderline* creepy stuff like fill your lungs with the stink of her hair.

The asterisk on “borderline”?  Bitch, you already know this! Because when we’re crushed-out, there’s some intense delusional hormones released that sell us clichés like how [we] “can’t help the way we feel,” and “no, I really mean it, you guys: this time isn’t like the last time when I said it’s about time I found the right [pick a pronoun, rinse, repeat; double-up on those appointments to the shrink, as close friends will only sigh in disgust, hang up, or pay someone to fark some sense into you. Quickly].”

Kay, I really need to focus here.

Ah! That’s right! The equation of your hormones with a jaunt to Usher this fine eve…

Unless, of course, you’ve slipped past that veritable point of ABANDON HOPE ALL YE WHO ENTER HERE into a life of Ed Hardy sweatpants, woven leather belts the color of fecal matter, headbands from mega-corporate “non-corporate” franchises prominently listed—even & especially if by invisible ink—on the trustafarian American-Apparel-Apparel-Is-My-Idea-Of-Slumming, Ma-a-an pseudo post-post-ironic Hipster Checklist Of [COUGH!] Cool.

✷ Cunty Ranting Hereby Interrupted for A Ceasura of Correctness Maximus ✷

L O O K  †  U P O N
T H E S E † L O V E L Y † L A D I E S

Nakoeth [L] a.k.a. ‘The D.J. Formerly Known As Fuchsia’: Esteemed Provisionist of Hand-Picked Auditory Delights, &
Sorrel Smith [R], A Prodigious Talent of The Visual Arts Who Renders
Her Paintings, Portraits, & Illustrations With Consummate Skill

✷ Palettes Cleansed, Corneas Stimulated…HEED THESE WORDS AS ‘CAUTION TAPE’ FOR YOUR PSYCHE, ✷ As There’s A Shifting Of Gears Back To Vitriolic Territory ✷ (Sorry, mom. Sorry, God.) ✷

Pfft! Oh.&.Yeah: The “Checklist of Cool.” That tripe’s more played-out than Dexy Midnight Runner’s lethal earworm known as “Come On Eileen,”  but then again?  Chances are if you’ve read—that’s read, any blog-skimmerexic stereotypes who’re in full-blown desperato zone, scrolling with sweaty palms & a  staggering 2.8 second average attention span (thanks to the ADHD Pharmers calculated into the same demo/grapho/frankly, let’s-not-get-too-graphic, whose intake of Mother’s Little Helpers fluff up those stats as effectively as a porn set’s invaluable blow-hards working behind-the-scenes)…

Anyway, as I was saying–or, at the very least, attempting to communicate before I reverted to an unfortunate habit of interrupting myself with tangential matter & tossing parentheses around with the same ease as a game of horse-shoes…

:: HERE. HERE’S THIS ::

with Ryan Rosprim [L], Maker-Ov-Musick from Kill Sister Kill: A Band Among the ‘Short List’ of House Faves
& on the [R]? Most applicable? The Court Jester, if anything!
(Incidentally, if I look like a bitch here? Alas! A photographic representation that’s accurate)

You you you, yeah, you: with your insatiable hunger for celebrity gossip, commerce tagged as “sharing a secret” (such a flagrant ploy to incite the domino effect among the dumbed-down click, copy, paste & repost crowd to create viral content…yet just like the anything-but-accidental exposure of thongs several inches above [insert name of trendy jeans] horizon being the visual equivalent of a mating call, it’s as fool-proof as the endless supply of fools).

Umm, yeah. Whaddya say we don’t “revisit” the aforementioned yawn-fest (not to mention time-suck kthnxthoractuallyeallynot) & visualize the rapid sweeping gesture responsible for ~magic~ on a dry erase board.  Yeah yeah, you know: the trademark disappearing act that occurs when ✷ POOF! ✷  It’s  the same blinding white hue working actors & “working boys” have for teeth.

Anyway, so now? Keep that imagination crankin’! Since, upon it, there’s been an addition of verdant green text in which a new topic—an assignment, if you will—occupies that space with the insistence of CAPS LOCK.

The message? Consider this an invitation to (envision air quotes here) follow my lead &
commence whatever personal rituals permit you to complete your destination of being
:: Suited & Booted ::

Above This Text, The Look? Four Words, My Applause: I SEE NO FLAWS

As aforementioned, here’s a dangerously delectable sampling of the historical haunt’s gorgeous creatures dressed in sumptuous fineries.  However!  Before any butt-hurt gloomophiles dial whine one one for the What About Me?! What About Me!? waaahbumlance to arrive, with a stern tone, I reiterate: this is but a small cross-section of the legendary bar’s “intimate associates.” A vast array of ‘regulars’ populated Usher’s environ over the years; these pictures just happen feature some of the individuals who—for whatever various & sundry reasons—appealed to the “peculiar sensibilities & temperament” of this humble blog’s narrator.

Or, to quote Poe (yet again!): my “reserve [has] been always excessive & habitual.”

Here’s to
Cheers to

T H E  † E X C E S S I V E  †  &  †  T R A N S G R E S S I V E

Exhibit A:

Sensual, Though Inherently Too Cultivated & Chic For One Dare To Describe As ‘Slutty.’
Sophisticated, Though With A Sufficient Accumulation Of Accolades; i.e., No Need To Be A Show-Off. An Infectiously Engaging Conversationalist—Perhaps The Most Charmingly Macabre Individual I’ve Ever Met, Actually. If you’re familiar with the photography of Eric Kroll, Steve Diet Goedde, Charles Gatewood, &/or Richard Kern (et al), you’ve seen her likeness: or rather, the image this anthropology major & multi-faceted individual chose to project at that precise moment in time.

A maestro of oil, Anna Noelle Rockwell‘s paintings explore the sublime intersection where
the gorgeous & the grotesque intersect.  Just click it & check ‘em, already… (For feck’s sake!)

Exhibit B:

Gabriele: Conjurer Of Thunderstorms & Lunar Apparitions, Dark Liquidtrance Bloodscapes,
Scrying, Writhing Vampiric Chasms, Stitch-Witchery Of Glamoured Fabrications,
Brightly-Colored Tarot Playthings In A Physical Shape & Smash-Lit State Of Mind
Like No Other, Cemeterial Moonlit Gloom, & Body-Popping.

No typo, that: Black Magic & Body Popping

A individual in a wonderfully warped sense of the word, & a collector’s dream.

Exhibit C:

Though I Can’t Tell You If It’s From When He Was Or Wasn’t A ‘Prince,’
With All Certainty, I Concur With The Sentiment: Natalie? She’s Got The Look, Yes

Exhibit D:

Paris Sadonis: A Master of Multiple Instruments; A Painter, Performance Artist & Musician Known For Pushing Boundaries—Particularly With The Rotating Cast Of Collaborators in The Audio-Visual Pastiche He Both Created & Orchestrates: EXP. ‘EXPerimentation Without Limitation’ is a doctrine among the collective; ‘Catharticism Is The Key To Our Satisfaction’ is another.

» Oh, but there’s MOAR » “Beneath The Cut!” »

:: A List Of Linkage :: (More Visual & Auditory Delicacies To Follow) ::

Official House of Usher nightclub Website

Xavier Haight from Malign & Roderick’s Chamber

Bat of Xorcist

Nako from Club Shutter

:: Apologies, though ONCE AGAIN : More Images & Info COMING SOON! ::
(My mention of ‘rushed’ was by no means hyperbole, oh impeccably clad darklings…)

However, for now?  In the words of our beloved Edgar Allan Poe,
prepare for

“a shudder even more thrilling than before.”

:: Joie de Vivre ::
an editorial of Gareth Pugh‘s oil-slick, sicker-than-ever Autumn 2010/Winter 2011 collection

✷ Unfortunate, though necessary DISCLAIMER BEFORE VIEWING: This video contains partial female nudity in an artistic context. If you are easily offended, uptight, conservative, under the age of 18 in a country where breasts are against the law for minors to view; if you are on a public computer—including though not limited to libraries, internet cafés, airports, airplanes, and/or places of employment—within a public setting which could potentially expose anyone to partial nudity against his or her free will; if you do not appreciate fashion, have no respect for the beauty of the human body, are a member of the Clergy, adhere to a religion in which viewing the aforementioned will incite questionable behavior, immortal thoughts, if not altogether deem you a candidate for hellfire and eternal damnation; if you are immature, live anywhere on the planet that designates aforementioned material illegal for anyone under the age of 21 and you are not at least 21 years of age, live where obscenity laws are stringent regarding web site content—namely, countries in which women are expected to have their bodies completely clothed in any and all public forums, certain zip codes within the American Bible Belt, or quite frankly, anywhere mired in antiquated notions of morality: do not click on the arrow that appears in the embedded content; do not press “play,” and do not view any other content on this URL under any pretense. In no uncertain terms: please, DO YOURSELF & THE REST OF THE CIVILIZED WORLD A FAVOR & GO AWAY—IMMEDIATELY, NOT ONE SECOND LATER; YES, I AM SERIOUS WHEN I SAY KINDLY NAVIGATE ELSEWHERE & THAT MEANS NOW. ✷

:: whew! ::

That being stated, for the rest of us?

Enable Full Screen
&
C r a n k + T h e + V o l u m e

video description & full credits await
beneath the cut

“Encapsulating all the dark glamour, divine decadence & hedonistic joy of the roaring Twenties, Gareth Pugh’s A/W 2010 collection is a stylised, silver & black Art Deco fantasy projected at breakneck speed into the twenty-first century.”

:: Respect :: Duly :: Noted ::

Direction: Ruth Hogben
Performance: Raquel Zimmermann at DNA Models
Fashion: Gareth Pugh
Styling: Katie Shillingford
Make-up: Alex Box at D&V Management
Hair: Martin Cullen at Streeters
Nails: Mike Pocock at Streeters
Lighting Direction: Simon Chaudoir at United Artists
Soundtrack: Lukid
Photographic Assistance: James Robotham
Styling Assistance: Angela
Make-up Assistance: Louise Bryam
Hair Assistance: Jaimie Tanner, Roku
Production: Gainsbury & Whiting
Electrician: Martin Duncan
Gaffer: Gary Varney
Production Runner: Harry Flinder

discovered on Hint Mag

:: SOLILOQUY 88 from JASON LAST on Vimeo. ::

“SOLILOQUY 88 is a fashion film collaboration between Jason Last & art director Jaime Rubiano.

Commissioned for Hintmag, the film features Rodarte‘s spring 2010 collection,
with shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte.

Radium, a white radioactive metal with the atomic number 88, turns black when exposed to oxygen.
The film explores themes of decay, metamorphosis, transformation, etc, all through the lens
of a dystopian and sci-fi vision, with a soundtrack by David Madden.”

For which, first & foremost, I must extend props to the Most Correct
blog known as Dirty Flaws ♡

Among recent discoveries among the internet ethers, of course I’d come across
another accessory bordering on the “untouchable” end of the spectrum…

I mean, first Le Petit Protector (thanks for the additional info, oh omniscient VJESCI).

And now this sublime “Fang” ring by Brett Westfall of Unholy Matrimony?!

Despite my scatter-shot land-mine of a memory, I can still recall Mr. Westfall lurking outside a boutique I managed, back in 2001. Cute, thin, and decidely of the “skater boy” ilk, he had samples of his line draped over an arm and for a good 15-20 minutes stood on the sidewalk, attempting to act all mad cazh with each furtive glance shot through the front window (punctuated with a flip of his dirty blond bangs, which I assumed was for dramatic effect).

I would remark, “‘Then poof!‘ he disappeared”—except that in the current context (translation: written by the über-poofter that I am), I can’t help but think a reader’s thoughts would veer towards certain inevitable double-entendres…

When that? That is not the case.

On the contrary, what I intend to say: I believe “extra-curricular” activities might have played a part in his no-show that afternoon. No-show until later, that is: when I begged/pleaded/pseudo-slyly coerced the shop’s owner to begin carrying his home-spun, (then) burgeoning line with the Goth-damaged name: Unholy Matrimony.

The boutique is long gone, and I haven’t seen the gent in years, yet BAM!

Here “he” is again—-or rather, one of his sublime creations, a recurring character in the narrative I refer to as My Blue Screen life.

At the very least?  Damn, are these interwebz all the better for it.

Whether or not he sees these words, all the same: effing congrats, maing!

You’re making it/You’ve made it
You’ve made it/You’re making it

H A P P E N

☥ Atelier New York ☥